Editing Dharmic Circuits: Sacred Pathways – Part 1 (section)

==== Sacred Geography ====
In this way, entire Bharatvarsha is strewn across with these sacred kshetras. On any given day, during any time of the year some divine yatra is being undertaken. If one were to plot a live map of these paths of teertha yatris, then entire India would be lit up with lines criss-crossing every nook and corner of this great land, a map denser than that of modern roadways. For many, teertha pathas (pilgrimage trails) are nothing more than treks in a jungle. Long before the British and then independent Indian engineers reached into the interiors of India, the rishis and teertha yatris of India had mapped the entire sacred land of Bharatvarsha in this way.

This is palpably evident when talking to any common practicing Hindu. Those with no sense of geography, those who have never looked up a single map of India closely have the entire chart of the sacred teerthas of India stored in their memory. They carry this map of the real India – the sacred Bharatvarsha, right in their minds, complete with the nodes, the entry points, the destinations and the entire pathways of these sacred journeys.

Even without the privilege of any formal education, the idea of India is not only conveyed to them but also propagated to them. Entire India lights up in their minds when the sacred teerthas are mentioned and the best part is they have not learned this in any classroom.  This is all without any state investment in mass education. This is a part of their culture that they grow up with. Regardless of their status in literacy, they are highly educated as far as the cultural knowledge of the sacred kshetras go.

The Sacred Circuits of Chamba

These sacred routes or teertha yatras do not just exist at the national level. The sacred circuits are repeated at ever smaller levels. This re-occurrence of the same fractal patterns is practiced down to the level of areas as small as a modern district. In the Chamba district of Himachal Pradesh, the story of the teerthas and yatras plays beautifully every year.

The most sacred teertha of this district is the Mani Mahesh Kailash – the mountain which is considered to be the sacred abode of Lord Shiva by the inhabitants of this region. The mountain peak is forever laden with snow and is a part of the range which is impassable even today. At the feet of the Kailash is the Mani Mahesh Lake which is the center of attraction for all Hindu pilgrims. It is in this lake that all the devotees take a sacred dip and have darshana of Shri Mani Mahesh Kailash. The lake affords a spectacular darshana of the mountain.

This is how it goes with the Hindus and snow-covered sacred peaks:  Mountains are not to climb and conquer, but to revere and have darshana of, and lakes are the places to go to. It is as if the mountain itself is the deity in the garbha-griha, and the lake is the confluence of the mandapa and the antarala, the farthest place where humans go to and where they have the darshana of bhagwan.

There are three main routes to Mani Mahesh Lake. Many pilgrims from Lahaul-Spiti come through the Kugti pass, others from the Jalsi pass. However, the most famous route is the one that goes through Chamba and traverses almost the entire length and breadth of the Chamba valley and the modern district of Chamba.

All roads stop a little further from Bharmaur, the ancient capital of the Chamba kings. The peak of Mani Mahesh remains unclimbed so far by any human being and is thus a ‘virgin peak’ in the mountain climbing lingo. Mani Mahesh Kailash is the final destination of so many devotees in many senses of the word.

The mountain attracts pilgrims from every small nook and corner of the district, and also the wider Bharatvarsha. Every Hindu in Himachal has at his heart’s desire to undertake the journey to Mani Mahesh Kailash at least once in his lifetime. This sacred mountain behaves as a cultural magnet, a spiritual center which attracts pilgrims from every ancient temple in the district of Chamba and various other districts nearby. At the center of the spiritual life of a large mountainous range, Mani Mahesh Kailash links various other pilgrimages all across the state and even farther.

Authored by Pankaj Saxena. 
Published by IndicaToday.[[Category:Art and Culture]]